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Soul-Cleansing:

Wrightsville Beach has sand, surf and the many amenities

By: Shea Carver

“Sand is overrated. It’s just tiny, little rocks.” So says Jim Carrey’s character, Joel, in Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind. Matched with a desperate need for romance, Joel is sinister but in a hopeful way. The beach is after all the place he goes to regroup, reflect and maybe even revel in self-pity and some ounce of happiness, should the need arise. What’s so great about those “tiny, little rocks,” however, is how big of an effect they often make on its visitors—even the more downtrodden ones like Joel. Sand is like exfoliation; the sea is its cleanser—not only to our skin and our bodies but, more importantly, to our souls.

There’s much sand to be funneled through our coastal abode. It always appears in our cars after beach excursions; in our shoes for days on end; in our bathtubs and sidewalks; it’s a tag-along that may seem like a nuisance. Yet, it’s a constant reminder that we can always soul-cleanse within a small drive. Wrightsville Beach is perhaps our closest haven for renewal.

It’s where folks have been trekking since 1853—when the Carolina Yacht Club became the first-built structure on the four-mile-long coast. With the addition of a train track, visitors were then able to access the island by land for the first time. The transformation of the street car, a.k.a. beach trolley, also perpetuated a greater population for which its white sand and clear blue waters are hailed as paradise by many.

Today the population is near 3,000, with a rapid increase over the summer months. With its close proximity to Wilmington, it makes for a nirvanic place to call home—lucky for us, a vacation is literally on our doorsteps any time we choose. Here’s how to take advantage of this truly breathtaking coastal serenity.

ACCOMMODATIONS
Luxury: Outside of renting one of the extremely fabulous beach homes on the island through companies like Bryant or Intracoastal Realty, the Holiday Inn SunSpree Resort is another option that makes quality beach stays memorable for life. Rooms vary in price; a July 19th-26th search (they were booked the first two weeks in July, high-season) ran anywhere from $274 through $394 a night.

Granted, the surroundings of the beach-front resort cannot be topped. They offer on-site dining with three restaurants: The Verandah Café, Gabby’s Lounge, and Lazy Days Bar and Grille. Plus, they have an indoor and outdoor pool, along with a guest activities center, featuring everything from planning a fishing charter to scheduling a massage. KidSpree Vacation Club lets children partake in arts and crafts and themed nights, and a gift shop is also on the premises. Their fitness facility will help health-nuts stay within their regimen. Conference facilities are also available for folks who wish to mix business with pleasure.

There are 184 rooms, showing views of the Atlantic Ocean or of the tranquil Intracoastal Waterway. There are one-bedroom whirlpool suites, whirlpool rooms, and rooms with two queens or one king with a sleeper sofa. The rooms were refurbished in April 2007, now equipped with refrigerator, microwave, safe, coffee maker, flat panel 32” LCD television, and wireless internet.

Holiday Inn SunSpree Resort is located at the north end of the island, at 1706 N. Lumina Avenue.

Cost-Efficient: The Blockade Runner has been around the island for quite a while, now. It’s the center of where the action used to be during the Lumina Pavilion days of Wrightsville, where acts like Cab Calloway often performed and drew in crowds of dancers into the ballroom. Today, Blockade Runner pays homage to Lumina every August during Lumina Daze. They show movies on the beach, just as was done back in the ‘40s; they have swing dances; and they hold family festivities.

To book a room for seven days, I came upon a rate for a two queen-bed room for only $155 a night on average. With taxes, the total came out to a little more than $1200—not bad when considering the amenities. The Blockade Runner has a “Sea Escape” beach bar; a luxe restaurant, EAST; as well as an outdoor pool, beach volleyball, oceanfront dining and even an on-site health spa. Their hotel is also smoke-free, featuring luxury rooms with refrigerated wet bars, as well as WiFi connections throughout the hotel. Oh, and they’re family-friendly, allowing kids under 12 to stay for free. Make plans for their Sunday Jazz Brunch to be swept away in relaxation. The Runner is located at 275 Waynick Boulevard.

Economical: While the Waterway Lodge isn’t beach-front property, it is located right on the mainland side of the drawbridge, at the corner of Eastwood and Airlie roads. Situated among some great

Intracoastal Waterway dining, visitors can walk to The Bridge Tender, Dockside or Airlie Seafood Company for cocktails and good seafood.
The Waterway Lodge has 24 oversized hotel rooms, all featuring a microwave, refrigerator, coffee maker and cable TV, with the visitor’s choice of two double beds, one queen, two queens or one king. There are also condominium-style rooms, featuring a full stove and oven, sleeper sofa and dining room. Pets are allowed in some of the condos, as well. Room rates are based on two adults; although, kids under 12 stay for free. Rates range from $59-$189 a night, but they may change at any time. There is a minimum two-night stay between April and September.

RESTAURANTS
Luxury: The Port Land Grille is one of the finest dining experiences not only on the mainland, a quarter-mile from the Wrightsville Bridge, but it’s one of North Carolina’s best fine-dining establishments hands down. With an eclectic menu hailing everything from Angus filets and prime-grade NY strip, to jumbo scallops from Maine and rockfish from the Outer Banks, the meals at Port Land Grille showcase the culinary arts in its greatest state. The restaurant is dim and cozy, as the open brick oven and grill from the kitchen permeate the smell of divinity. With prices ranging any where from $20-$50 a dish, the service is always impeccable; the wine list is superior; but it’s the food that truly rakes in much praise. For the adventurous, try their antelope, or if they have it on the menu, bison.

Reservations are recommended for this Lumina Station hideaway, located at 1908 Eastwood Road.

Cost-Efficient: The Oceanic is first and foremost known for its extravagant view of the Atlantic Ocean. It truly sweeps over the white sand and crystal-clear waters with ease and the notion of complete R ‘n’ R at every diner’s leisure. They specialize in seafood, offering fresh catches in a variety of preparations. Just as many would suspect, they also have the North Carolina staple: fried seafood platters.

Whatever diners decide to eat will only be enhanced with Oceanic’s hot crab dip. It’s quite decadent. But when sitting on the pier, just beware: Feeding the seagulls is a no-no! Oh, and go on Saturday to enjoy live music from 7-10pm. It makes the experience even better. 703 S. Lumina Avenue; costs range from $5-$27.

Economical: Trolly Stop. It’s a Wrightsville institution to no avail. Ask all the locals on the beach where to buy a cheap, filling lunch, and when they’re not pointing to one of the watering holes that serve cold beer, they’re pointing straight to the walk-through of the Trolly Stop.
This hot-dog joint has been around forever, it seems. They serve the best dogs, dressed a variety of ways. My personal favorite is the North Carolina Dog, with chili, slaw and mustard, and trust me when I say, their chili and slaw is super! It’s homemade and makes the perfect condiment to this traditional summertime food. Just expect to see a line out the door when visiting; however, don’t let it intimidate, as it moves rather quickly. Those folks have dog-serving down to a science.

Dogs run $2-$2.50, and they serve them in a variety of styles: standard pork, veggie, all-beef and fat free!

SHOPPING
Luxury: Vacation isn’t vacation until a little shopping is done. Of course, many may find the luxury of yacht-buying of the greatest high-end scale. But for the ladies who prefer to remain land-locked, in a super cute dress, nonetheless, head over to Lumina Station, right across the bridge, to Beanie + Cecil. Proprietor Kellie Woodbury stocks her racks full of high-end designer ware, from the funky lines of Helmut Lang to the sweet seduction of Catherine Melandrino.
Shoes, accessories and all of the needed accoutrements are also sold here. Check out the sales for a luxe obsession at 1904 Eastwood Road.

Cost-Efficient: At the corner of Lumina Avenue and Waynick Boulevard is a quaint resale shop that offers some of the cutest duds in Wilmington—and at really affordable prices. From flowy peasant tops to bohemian embroidery dresses, it’s easy to redesign that vacation wardrobe for less than $100 with the right eye and a little retail help. The ladies at Hallelu are very helpful and more than willing to give honest opinions, if need be. Their economical and chic shades, as well as jewelry and shoes are great buys. That they’re always getting in new stock means more than one trip during a week stay is totally acceptable.

Economical: Sure, shopping for cute duds is always a fashion-lover’s dream. But what’s a visit to Wrightsville without stocking the fridge with beach snacks and other “oops I forgot to pack the toothbrush” needs? Robert’s Grocery, a 60-year must-stop, is the main store on the island to flock for soda, magazines, cereal and coffee—also housing a kiosk inside from Wilmington’s very own Port City Java. Also, don’t pass up a pint of Robert’s Famous Chicken Salad from the deli, and they have a hot-line full of great fried chicken and mac ‘n’ cheese. Located at 32 N. Lumina, the freshly baked pies and cakes make wonderful desserts.

NIGHTLIFE
Luxury: New to the Wrightsville area is Shadow Bar, where go-go dancers take on a few sultry moves, and martinis are sipped by super-chic bar patrons looking for more variety in life. Located at Pavilion Place, right across from Sweet and Savory, on the mainland off Eastwood Road, Shadow Bar gives Wrightsville Beach folks a metropolitan experience like its sister eatery downtown, Yo Sake. A menu of Chinese buns and other enticing ethnic flavors make it much more than a club, too. Although, expect to hear Top 40 tunes on the dance floor. Or lounge in their sofa bar area for a more tame sipping experience. After being in the sun all day, it’s a nice place to dress up and show off that new tan.

Cost-Efficient: It’s mostly known as a college meat market, where twentysomethings pack onto the dance floor, sipping from straws in really large blue fish bowls. It’s a recipe for chaos: college kids, fishbowls, Mickeys and hip-hop. But it’s so sinful to partake in at least once a year, if not only to be reminded precisely how much fun it can be to let loose, drink blue cocktails and dance the night away to RZA or OutKast.

Red Dog’s is also known as a local surfer hangout, where upstairs in their spacious bar and dance-floor area, a big screen showcases surf videos, while long-haired blondies sip from their Red Stripe talking about the killer waves they caught a few feet away on Wrightsville. It’s eye-candy, for sure—but more importantly, Red Dog’s stays true to its clientele by often hosting surf contests. They’re a bar that makes patrons realize how much fun it can be to be young again.
Red Dog’s is located at 5 North Lumina Avenue, and they often feature live music on some nights. Cover charges usually range around $5, but the fun to be had inside is priceless.
Economical: Buddy’s is best known for its damn-cold beer and the dollar bills plastered all over its walls and ceilings. Only a few feet away from Johnny Mercer’s Pier, at 13 East Salisbury Street, the two-story bar offers its patrons down-home treatment, and more than a few great nights of people-watching and listening to the jukebox.
With a hodgepodge of decor ranging from pirates to ship lanterns to pulley blocks, Buddy’s also serves food from its oyster bar, making it a perfect pit stop after sunbathing on the beach. Come in wet with bathing suits and sarongs, flip-flops and towels; they don’t discriminate here. It’s the true beach bar of Wrightsville.

RECREATION
Luxury: So a beach trip would never be complete without the extravagance of deep-sea fishing. It’s all about the water and what bites with Mad Fish Charter, where Captain Freddy takes visitors out to catch the best on the East Coast. From Spanish mackerel at nearby artificial reefs to king mackerel and tarpon to drum, flounder and bluefish, exploring the backwaters, creeks and jetties always proves an enjoyable time.

Captain Freddy’s rates are $300 for four hours, up to three people; $400 for six hours up to three people; and $500 for eight hours up to three people. Sightseeing trips are also available, and prices for fishing includes all bait and tackle.

Cost Efficient: Kite surfing has become a hot commodity among local water-sport enthusiasts. At Blowing in the Wind on Causeway Drive in Wrightsville, folks can drop by to sign up for lessons. While equipment costs can run rather high for those who are looking for a long-term hobby, visitors who aren’t necessarily beach bound forever can set up shop with rentals. A trainer kite runs from $12-$45, while lessons go from $99 to $349, the latter being an all-inclusive deal that covers everything from Ground School (where folks learn how to use the kite and gauge its control according to wind window, power zone, power stroke and safety considerations) to working with certified instructors in mastering the sport. They teach their lessons in support with jet-skis, offering a steady hand and clear instruction. More so, the full package includes rental of all equipment needed to partake in the extreme water sport.

Blowing in the Wind will provide all information needed at gokitesurf.com.
Economical: Wrightsville Beach hosts events of all sorts throughout the summer season to enjoy with the whole family. Music plays our sandy shores and beyond throughout the warm months. The Airlie Jazz Series at historic Airlie Gardens, held every first Friday throughout the summer, costs a mere $8, and offers lush surroundings over soft sounds with refreshments sold to enhance the experience from 6-8pm. While Mayfaire Music on the Town, held every Friday evening behind Linens ‘n’ Things off the island on Military Cutoff, offers free live music for the family to enjoy from 6pm ‘til dark.

Quite frankly, the beach isn’t officially happening until a surf contest gets underway. On Friday, July 10th, through Sunday, July 13th, the Reef/Pro-Am Surf Fest offers three days of mad wave-riding. Many of the world’s best professional and amateur surfers will make for exciting views on the beach. Be there bright and early, as the festival starts at 7am on Oceanic Street (www.wblivesurf.com). It’s free to observe.

BEACH ACCESS
Most Popular: Anyone who’s anyone knows darn well that Johnny Mercer’s Pier welcomes bikini-clad hotties and all of their crew to the waves with open arms. Johnny Mercer’s is a hotbed of people, where music often plays, as they sip on a few cold beverages and play amongst the sand, shore and sun like the children they once were. With parking meters at basically every turn, it’s important to feed them enough change as to avoid tickets, which are strictly enforced on the island. But lots of parking is offered in front of the pier and on the side streets surrounding it. A quarter gets visitors 10 minutes, so it takes a few to have enough time to enjoy the rays. To get change, head to the Lanier Parking at 5 Live Oak Drive. Also pay attention the Pay Parking machines, where $1.50 buys an hour of time. The machines take Visa and Mastercard, as well, for folks who are low on cash.

Most Serene: The south end of Wrightsville is one of my most favorite places to be. Mostly it offers a quiet seclusion from the hustle of other areas of the beach. Situated near a jetty and the opening of the Intracoastal Waterway, the waters are often a little calmer. The sandy beach seems never ending, providing tons of space to read and relax. The NC National Estuarine Research Reserve is also located nearby for the tree-huggers and environmental lovers who seek out the preservation of our natural land. Being on the south end can convert anyone into such a being—it’s just that gorgeous.

Family-Friendly: At the opposite end of Wrightsville, on the north end, is Shell Island, named appropriately from Shell Island Resort, which offers tons of rooms and accommodations in their condominium-style rooms, with views facing the marshes and the Atlantic. Families often come here, where as one may expect, shells are easily found along the shores.