by: Anna Brown

Siena Trattoria
3315 Masonboro Loop Rd.
(910) 794-3002
4 stars (out of 5)

Ever since I can remember, I’ve dreamed of traveling to faraway lands and experiencing everything that a new culture has to offer. Italy has always been on my list of places to go, and I often close my eyes and imagine standing in awe before the famous sites, being enraptured by the fast-paced conversations in languages I couldn’t even begin to understand. But, most importantly, I look forward to experiencing the country through what I consider to be its most important cultural aspect: the food. I would devour tender Saltimbocca in Rome, seek out the best pizza in Naples, and savor genuine Parmigiano Reggiano and prosciutto in Parma’s vast countryside.

Unfortunately, in the era of the “staycation,” spontaneous trips to distant countries are just a dream for most. However, authentic Italian restaurants found in most any town can transport lucky diners to Italy’s shores or villages in a matter of bites. This is precisely what my sister, Blair, and I were hoping for as we walked in Siena Trattoria on Masonboro Loop Road last Tuesday night.

The restaurant’s ambiance alone is enough to make patrons feel as though they have just entered an elegant establishment in the heart of Italy. Redwood tables and terra-cotta booths line the edges of the dining room, while intricate tapestries and brightly colored photographs of the Italian countryside pop against golden marbled walls. Molded ceiling tiles the color of milk chocolate only add to its homey Italian sophistication.

“I couldn’t pronounce any of this if I tried, but it all looks phenomenal,” Blair said, as she began perusing her menu. When our waiter, Todd, soon appeared tableside, our lack of Italian language skills became less of a problem, as he was cheerfully eager to assist our poor pronunciation endeavors.

Siena’s antipasto (appetizer) selection is just as daunting as the rest of the menu. While it only has eight choices, including classics like calamari or mozzarella fritti, each sounds so luscious it is difficult to make a decision. We finally ordered the tuffo del carciofo, a brick-oven-baked spinach artichoke dip with fontina cheese and fresh herbs, lightly tanned with a parmesan crust and served with garlic crostinis, which are thin slices of toasted Italian bread. Brought to the table piping hot, the plate’s wafting scent of herbs and cheese immediately drew us in with little regard for how the bubbling dip might scar our tongues. The crunchy crostinis were the perfect pairing to the exceptionally creamy dip as well as the herbs, which I thought might make it a bit too floral. But I was happily proven wrong as the mild fontina cheese was the highlight, bringing with it a slightly nutty flavor to the forefront. After four pieces each, Blair and I had to push the plate aside because, for those who love spinach artichoke dip, this heavenly appetizer could quickly ruin even the largest appetite.

Todd then arrived with our loaf of still-steaming homemade bread that was crusted in herbs and garlic, served alongside a dipping sauce of olive oil, balsamic vinegar and herbs. We nibbled at its hot fluffiness while deciding on our main course.

The entrée selection at Siena is vast and diverse, offering everything from classics like eggplant, chicken, veal parmigiana and lasagna, to more unique dishes such as the salmone balsamico and penne con broccoli e salciccia. They are also quickly becoming known for their selection of gourmet calzones, subs and pizzas, featuring ingredients like caramelized onions, marinated chicken breast, calamata olives, roasted red peppers, homemade mozzarella and much more. All are truly authentic Italian, either homemade at Siena each day or shipped directly from Italy itself.

After Todd again appeared by our side and offered a few suggestions in his friendly demeanor, Blair decided on the pollo siena, a pan-roasted chicken breast stuffed with prosciutto and fontina cheese, covered with a mushroom sherry cream sauce over fettuccini, with a side of roasted vegetables. I took the slightly more classic route and ordered the veal piccata, also served with roasted vegetables and the potato of the day, a la mashed potatoes.

Normally when confronted with the obligatory side of roasted vegetables at a restaurant, I take one bite of the watery chunks and push them to the side. I was happy to find this was not the case at Siena. The chef here actually takes the time and care to season his vegetables, transforming bits of squash, zucchini and carrots from a side-dish afterthought to a tarragon-infused pleasure.

Blair’s chicken was expertly arranged into thick slices so that the little pinwheels created around the ham and cheese stuffing was as much a delight to the eye as it was to the palate. The tender chicken had a delightfully crunchy exterior from the pan-roasting, which was only further complemented by the delicate slices of mushroom and sweet cream sauce that covered both against the perfectly al-dente pasta.

When it comes to piccata, I feel I am quickly reaching expert status, having created wonders and disasters of all sorts in my own kitchen—but Siena had me rethinking my own recipe. The veal cutlets were some of the most supple I have ever eaten, even if they were slightly over-breaded, which created a small mush of excess coating on my plate. Yet, Siena’s piccata sauce is the real star: the tangy white wine, lemon and caper sauce soaked deeply into the veal, harmonizing its subtle flavors with the perfect balance of lemon and caper. Even the side of mashed potatoes, while fairly plain but wonderfully light and creamy, seemed to be the perfect addition.

The dessert list at Siena is just as impressive as everything else. Guests can choose from sweet delights such as crepes stuffed with Nutella and vanilla ice cream, cheesecake, cannolis, and what I consider the ultimate Italian guilty pleasure: tiramisu. I can never pass up tiramisu if it’s on the menu, and I’m certainly glad I didn’t at Siena. It was everything a classic should be: sweet, comforting, not too filling but utterly sinful at the same time. The espresso-soaked lady fingers melded magically into the light mascarpone cheese layers and were accentuated by the neat drizzle of chocolate and the mound of rich, homemade whipped cream on the side. It was the perfect ending to my pseudo-Italian getaway.

Even though I know I will make it to Italy at least once during my lifetime, Siena Trattoria does a great job satiating a taste of its authenticity, replete from soaring travel expenses. Still, the desire for saltimbocca in Rome—well, it’s still burning.