It’s a different business model, I’ll give them that. Green Line Pizza and Steak offers delivery and takeout, but no dining in. There are a couple tables, one inside and two outside, but the signs clearly indicate that the restaurant is not zoned for on-premise dining. The tables are strictly for waiting customers. But I like different; different is more interesting.
I made my first visit to Green Line Pizza and Steak, located on North Market Street in SweetWater Landing Strip Mall, seeking sustenance for an afternoon of Sunday football. I don’t live terribly far from the place (10 minutes if lights and traffic cooperate), but takeout is typically graded on a curve. Hot food in small containers means steam affects the final product on the table in ways one doesn’t encounter while dining in. I’m happy to report that in this case the damage was minimal.
I started with one of their cheese-fry options: Mega Cheese Fries. Since it was advertised as being covered in mozzarella cheese, cheddar cheese and bacon, how could I not be sold? While the mozzarella and bacon came as promised, the cheddar cheese was a cheese sauce rather than actual melted cheese. I’m sure devotees of Cheez Whiz will enjoy it, but for me it ruined an otherwise delicious dish. The bitter cheddarish taste dominated. On a later trip, I tried another variety, the plain mozzarella fries, and found them simply delicious without the liquid cheese.
I also went with a pleasant sandwich (even if bearing an outdated name): the Oriental Chicken. Toasted on a very nice ciabatta, it featured romaine lettuce, almond flakes, red onions, cucumbers, and a Thai sesame sauce. Though the sauce dampened the bun a tad more than I prefer, the vegetables proved quite fresh, making the sandwich crisp and vibrant. The sesame flavoring gave a bit of flair without burning the tongue—although, I’d love to taste a hint more spice.
Green Line boasts on its Facebook page that all its meats are organic. Normally a skeptic of the flavor value of organic meats and produce, I will say the chicken tasted tenderly delicious. I won’t say that this fact applies to all organic chicken, but it may be mutually exclusive in this case: 1. The chicken was organic. 2. The chicken was delicious. I’ll leave it to you to make up your own mind.
I made a second late-night trip to Green Line aftering checking the website to find a weekend closing time of 11 p.m. I pulled up at 10:40 p.m. to find staffers cleaning the cold grill. I’m as sympathetic as anyone to closing a restaurant early on a slow night. For all I know, it was necessary for maintenance. But in a review nothing can be overlooked just because I want it to be.
On my third attempt, I sampled Green Line’s delivery service, which I found friendly, speedy and accurate. I’m not sure what their range is, but the delivery service does a nice job. I went with a cheesesteak—something Green Line’s been advertised as doing supberb. I substituted mozzarella for the unpleasant mockery of cheese that is Cheez Whiz. Once again, I can’t speak to all organic meats, but Green Line’s shaved cuts of ribeye are thicker and more flavorful than any Steak-umm replica. They did a nice job caramelizing the onions, which gave just the right sweetness to the sandwich without crossing the line into a candy-coated nightmare.
Yet, the real star of the Green Line experience came with their pizza margherita. The circlets of fresh mozzarella, and their distinct oily texture, along with a sauce that had just a hint of spiciness made the tomato flavor seem bolder somehow. Put simply: It left me wanting more. I ordered half of it with sausage and found the pork robust. I’ll be looking at some of their other pizzas in the near future.
Every order at Green Line comes with a free dessert: a small bag of fried pizza dough coated in sugar and cinnamon. It may be a touch decadent; nonetheless, it’s a nice addition. And, face it: It is always nice to be surprised by free dessert.
The overall experience with Green Line was overwhelmingly positive: quick and friendly service, and a lot more care goes into the food than seen in other fast-dining concepts. It’s a worthy hunt for anyone in the neighborhood.
Green Line Pizza and Steak
7134 Market Street
Sun. – Thurs., 10 a.m. – 10 p.m.
Fri. – Sat., 10 a.m. – 11 p.m.